To mark the 200th anniversary of the first performance of “Silent Night” on December 24, 1818, Salzburg and its neighboring Austrian communities are celebrating the song heard round the world. It’s true; “Stille Nacht, Heilige Nacht” has been translated into 300 languages and dialects and still resonates with music lovers of all faiths.
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| The City of Salzburg, festive year round, gears up for the winter holidays. |
How do you celebrate a song?
The city’s Felsenreitschule
will present a musical version of the song’s creation story that begins its run
November 24. With any luck, it could do for Salzburgland what “Sound of Music”
– the blockbuster film made from a Broadway musical – did for Salzburg more
than 50 years ago.
Salzburgland towns associate
with the song’s composer and lyricist are celebrating the anniversary with
special events and Advent Festivals. You can also catch a historical
re-enactment of the Silent Night story to be done on the stage of Hochberg’s parish church.
Two towns are already set for the influx of Silent Night 200
tourists because of their long history: Oberndorf,
the hometown of the priest who wrote the lyrics; and Arnsdorf, home of the musical composer.
The Creation Story of “Silent Night”
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| Silent Night Square with the Chapel in the background, Oberndorf |
Researchers today think that the song’s message of hope had
such immediate impact because in the 1700s, political and economic hard times had
befallen Salzburg, then a prince-bishopric in the Holy Roman Empire.
At that time, Josef Mohr was the unconventional priest
assigned to the Church of St. Nicholas in Oberndorf. Whatever the inspiration,
he decided that an old poem of his about the night of Jesus’ birth might cheer
his congregation. He asked Franz Xaver Gruber of nearby Arnsdorf, the church
organist, to set it to music so it could be performed Christmas Eve. The church
organ was not working, so Mohr performed his song on guitar -- with Gruber
singing along and the church’s chorus behind them.
Historians say this musical act was so radical for Catholic
clergy during that era that many believe it could only have been performed outside
the church’s walls, perhaps for local farmers. Thus, a legend began…
Oberndorf, Silent Night Museum and the Chapel
Today, this picturesque Austrian village boasts a
sophisticated little museum at Silente
Nacht Platz that will be open daily during the 200th anniversary
celebrations.
The museum building is thought to have housed clergy during
the early 19th century. Inside, families can learn about mining salt and
transporting it by barge on the rough Salzach River. Multimedia displays
illustrate how the bend in the river that today separates Salzburgland from
Bavaria, Germany, was challenging to navigate in Mohr’s era.
Visitors can put on headsets to hear the song in dozens of languages
but must head upstairs to sing along! On the small second level, there’s a film
re-enactment of how this song inspired brotherhood among soldiers on both sides
during the siege of Stalingrad.
Another room illustrates the story of two singing families
from the Tyrol region who took the still anonymous “Silent Night” on the road
with them, including a performance at New York’s Trinity Church by the
then-famous Rainer Family Singers in 1838.
From there, the song’s universal message of hope went viral
and its fame grew so in Europe that in 1854, research done by the Cathedral at
St. Peter’s in Salzburg revealed the identities of its creators, and the stories
of Mohr and Gruber were shared with the world.
And yes, the museum’s
last room has a karaoke booth where guests can select to voice renditions by
everyone from Elvis to Bing Crosby, and the audio file will be emailed to you.
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| Options to try out "Silent Night" Karaoke at the museum in Oberndorf |
Arnsdorf and the School
Upstairs, thought to be where the poor musician lived with
his wife and family, is a small museum of artifacts, including the original Circulare or lesson plan used to guide
his instructional program. Other artifacts and some furnishings belong to his
grandson, also a musician, who legitimized their claim to the song. Children
will enjoy seeing the way a classroom of that era was set up.
Next door, the Maria
im Mosel Church is more than 500 years old and under restoration. Inquire
about hours the school is open to the public.
What’s Special at the Christmas Holidays
The local Christmas Markets, open annually the fourth Sunday
prior to Christmas Eve, have charming small-town versions throughout
Salzburgland. Oberndorf’s Christkindlesmarkt
features about 20 vendors selling crafts and lebkuchen, a traditional cinnamon biscuit. The local Tannenbaum evergreens are decorated with
small lights and ornaments made of hay, lighting the festivities until silence
descends.
Salzburg and its Christmas Market
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| The Dom St. Peter's, the Salzburg Cathedral, is the centerpiece of the winter Christmas Market. |
Most families will base themselves in beautiful Salzburg,
about a half-hour away by taxi, so don’t miss the famous Christkindlesmarkt.
This ornately decorated and festive, outdoors market has taken place below the
towering Hohensalzburg Fortress in
the Old Town since the 15th century.
Salzburg’s market is unusual because many more typical
handcrafts and artisan works are sold than food, though gluhwein, bratwurst and strudel are bestsellers that bring in the
locals after a day’s work.
Visiting Salzburgland
The bicycle path that runs from Salzburg along the Salzach
River (ask at your hotel about renting bikes) is flat, car-free and very
scenic. In just 90 minutes, a fit bicyclist can be in Oberndorf to see the “Silent
Night” museum and chapel.
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| The Christmas Market in Salzburg's Old Town Square; Photo c. Visit Salzburg |
Or, slow down and spend a quiet night at the closest gasthof, Hotel alt Oberndorf Bauern Brau, around the corner from the museum.
They have 24 simple rooms (one to three beds in each) and a terrific homey restaurant
that provide a serenity break from the holiday hustle-bustle of Salzburg.
Here is a roundup of more ideas of where to hear music and enjoy Salzburg with kids; for a holiday events calendar, please visit Salzburg Tourism.
